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Steering and suspension

Steering and suspension: ball joints, control arm adjustment bolts, control arm bushings, control arms, joints and u-joints, pitman arms — what they are, where they are fitted, signs of wear. Aftermarket parts for American cars.

The suspension connects the wheels to the body, absorbs bumps and keeps the tyres in contact with the road, while the steering system turns the wheels when you turn the steering wheel. In this category you will find aftermarket shock absorbers, control arms, ball joints, bushings, tie rods and power steering parts for American vehicles.

In this guide: Ball joints, Control arm adjustment bolts, Control arm bushings, Control arms, Joints and U-joints, Pitman arms, Power steering hoses, Power steering pumps, Shock absorbers, Shock mounts and strut bearings, Steering idler arms, Steering seals and repair kits, Suspension springs, Sway bar bushings, Sway bar links, Sway bars, Tie rod ends, Tie rods, Track bars, Wheel bearings, Wheel hubs.

Ball joints

What it is: A ball joint is a pivot that connects the control arm to the steering knuckle and lets the wheel steer and move up and down at the same time.

Where it is fitted: At the end of the control arm by the front knuckle, and on solid-axle vehicles as an upper and lower joint in the knuckle at the end of the axle.

Signs of wear: Knocking over bumps, vertical wheel play, creaking when steering and uneven tyre wear.

Did you know: On Jeeps and pickups with a solid front axle the ball joints are pressed into the knuckle, and a worn joint should be replaced promptly because if it separates the wheel can collapse.

Shop — Ball joints

Control arm adjustment bolts

What it is: These are cam (eccentric) bolts used to adjust camber and caster during a wheel alignment.

Where it is fitted: They pass through the control arm bushings where the arms mount to the frame or knuckle.

Signs of wear: The alignment cannot be set because the bolt is seized, or the alignment drifts out after a short time.

Did you know: Rusty cam bolts often seize inside the bushing, and they are also fitted after a lift to regain camber adjustment range.

Shop — Control arm adjustment bolts

Control arm bushings

What it is: A bushing is a metal and rubber part that lets the control arm pivot up and down while absorbing vibration and holding the wheel alignment.

Where it is fitted: In the eyes of the control arms where they mount to the frame, subframe or axle.

Signs of wear: Clunks when pulling away and braking, vague handling, pulling under braking and uneven tyre wear.

Did you know: Tighten rubber bushing bolts only with the vehicle sitting on its wheels — tightened with the suspension hanging, they are pre-twisted and tear quickly.

Shop — Control arm bushings

Control arms

What it is: A control arm connects the knuckle or axle to the frame and guides the wheel up and down while keeping it correctly aligned.

Where it is fitted: At each wheel, usually as upper and lower arms at the front, and on solid-axle vehicles as links that locate the axle.

Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, pulling, steering wheel vibration and uneven tyre wear.

Did you know: Many control arms come with bushings and the ball joint already pressed in, which saves press work; an alignment is needed after replacement.

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Joints and U-joints

What it is: A joint transmits rotation between two shafts set at an angle, for example in the steering column or a driveshaft.

Where it is fitted: On the steering shaft between the column and the steering gear, and on driveshafts and axle shafts.

Signs of wear: Clicking or notchy feel when turning the steering wheel, a clunk when pulling away and vibration that grows with speed.

Did you know: A U-joint with a grease fitting needs regular greasing, and marking the shaft position before removal helps keep it balanced.

Shop — Joints and U-joints

Pitman arms

What it is: The pitman arm turns the rotation of the steering gear output shaft into movement of the linkage that steers the wheels.

Where it is fitted: It sits on the output shaft of a steering box, as found on solid-axle Jeeps, pickups and older rear-wheel-drive cars.

Signs of wear: Play in the steering wheel, pulling or wandering and clunks when turning.

Did you know: Remove the arm from the shaft with a puller, not a hammer, and lifted vehicles sometimes use a drop pitman arm to correct the drag link angle.

Shop — Pitman arms

Power steering hoses

What it is: The hoses carry fluid between the reservoir, the pump and the steering gear — one under high pressure and one as a return line.

Where it is fitted: They run at the front of the engine bay from the power steering pump to the steering gear and back to the reservoir.

Signs of wear: Wet fluid spots on the hoses and under the vehicle, a dropping reservoir level and a whining pump.

Did you know: A high-pressure hose with crimped fittings cannot be replaced with plain hose and clamps — it would burst under that pressure.

Shop — Power steering hoses

Power steering pumps

What it is: The pump creates fluid pressure that helps turn the wheels, so the steering feels light.

Where it is fitted: It is bolted to the front of the engine and driven by the accessory belt.

Signs of wear: Whining when turning, especially at full lock, heavy steering when parking and fluid leaks.

Did you know: Use the fluid specified in the owner's manual (some models need ATF, others a dedicated power steering fluid) and bleed the system by turning the wheels lock to lock.

Shop — Power steering pumps

Shock absorbers

What it is: A shock absorber damps the oscillation of the spring, so the body does not keep bouncing after a bump and the wheel stays on the road.

Where it is fitted: There is one at each wheel, between the control arm or axle and the frame or body; at the front of many SUVs and cars it is part of a MacPherson strut.

Signs of wear: Bouncing over bumps, nose dive under braking, oil leaking down the body and uneven, cupped tyre wear.

Did you know: Shocks are replaced in pairs on an axle, and after lifting a Jeep or pickup you need longer shocks, otherwise they run out of travel.

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Shock mounts and strut bearings

What it is: The mount connects the shock to the body and isolates vibration, and the bearing in the upper strut mount lets the strut rotate when you steer.

Where it is fitted: At the top of the shock absorber or MacPherson strut, in the strut tower under the hood or in the cargo area.

Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, creaking or popping when turning the wheel at a standstill and heavier steering.

Did you know: It is best to replace the mount and bearing together with the strut, since the strut has to be taken apart with a spring compressor anyway.

Shop — Shock mounts and strut bearings

Steering idler arms

What it is: The idler arm supports the centre link on the side opposite the pitman arm so that both wheels steer evenly.

Where it is fitted: It bolts to the frame in steering systems with a centre link, typical of older pickups, vans and large rear-wheel-drive sedans.

Signs of wear: Loose, wandering steering, uneven tyre wear and clunks when turning at a standstill.

Did you know: The idler arm and pitman arm wear at a similar rate, so they are often replaced together, followed by a toe alignment.

Shop — Steering idler arms

Steering seals and repair kits

What it is: Kits of seals, boots and small parts let you repair a leaking or worn component instead of buying a complete new unit.

Where it is fitted: In the steering gear, power steering pump and on steering joints.

Signs of wear: Power steering fluid leaks, torn rubber boots and grease-covered areas around joints.

Did you know: Replace every seal in the kit, not just the leaking one — the others are just as old and usually fail soon after.

Shop — Steering seals and repair kits

Suspension springs

What it is: A spring carries the weight of the vehicle and sets the ride height, compressing when the wheel hits a bump.

Where it is fitted: At each wheel, between the control arm or axle and the frame or body, often on the strut.

Signs of wear: The vehicle leans to one side or sits low, the suspension bottoms out and a coil is cracked.

Did you know: Springs are replaced in pairs on an axle, and a proper spring compressor is a must for strut work — a compressed spring stores a lot of energy.

Shop — Suspension springs

Sway bar bushings

What it is: Rubber or polyurethane bushings hold the sway bar to the frame and absorb vibration while letting the bar twist.

Where it is fitted: In the brackets that bolt the sway bar to the frame or subframe.

Signs of wear: Squeaks and knocks over bumps, especially in winter, and visible play of the bar in the bracket.

Did you know: Do not use petroleum-based grease on rubber bushings as it degrades the rubber; polyurethane bushings, on the other hand, need grease or they squeak.

Shop — Sway bar bushings

Sway bar links

What it is: A sway bar link transfers force from the control arm or axle to the sway bar, so the bar can limit body roll in corners.

Where it is fitted: It connects the end of the sway bar to the control arm, strut or axle, one at each wheel of the axle.

Signs of wear: Knocking or rattling over small bumps, especially at low speed, and play in the link joints.

Did you know: Links with rubber bushings are tightened with the vehicle on its wheels, and Wrangler owners often fit quick-disconnect links to gain axle articulation off-road.

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Sway bars

What it is: A sway bar is a torsion bar that links the wheels on one axle and reduces body roll in corners.

Where it is fitted: It runs across the front or rear of the vehicle, held to the frame by bushings and connected to the control arms or axle by links.

Signs of wear: More body roll in corners and knocking from the bar area when the bar is cracked or bent.

Did you know: A stiffer bar sharpens on-road handling but limits off-road articulation — which is why the Wrangler Rubicon has a push-button sway bar disconnect.

Shop — Sway bars

Tie rod ends

What it is: A tie rod end is the ball joint at the end of the tie rod that lets the wheel steer and move up and down without play.

Where it is fitted: It bolts to the steering knuckle and threads onto the tie rod.

Signs of wear: Knocking over bumps with the wheels turned, play when rocking the wheel side to side and a torn rubber boot.

Did you know: Count the turns or measure the position of the old end before removing it — fitting the new one the same way lets you drive safely to the alignment shop.

Shop — Tie rod ends

Tie rods

What it is: A tie rod transfers movement from the steering gear to the steering knuckle, so it is what actually turns the wheel.

Where it is fitted: It connects the steering rack or centre link to the front wheel knuckle; on solid-axle vehicles it runs across and links both wheels.

Signs of wear: Play in the steering wheel, clunks when turning, the vehicle wanders on a straight road and wears the inner or outer tyre edges quickly.

Did you know: Always have the toe set after replacing a tie rod, because even a small length difference wears tyres fast.

Shop — Tie rods

Track bars

What it is: A track bar keeps a solid axle centred under the vehicle and stops it from shifting sideways relative to the frame as the suspension moves.

Where it is fitted: It runs across the vehicle between the axle and the frame, front or rear, on solid-axle vehicles such as the Jeep Wrangler, older Grand Cherokees or RAM trucks.

Signs of wear: The steering darts side to side, delayed response to steering input, clunks from the front and violent front-end shaking after a bump.

Did you know: Worn track bar bushings or a worn track bar ball joint are among the most common causes of the infamous Jeep “death wobble”, and lifted vehicles use adjustable track bars to re-centre the axle.

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Wheel bearings

What it is: A wheel bearing lets the wheel spin smoothly with little friction while carrying the weight of the vehicle.

Where it is fitted: It sits in the hub or knuckle of each wheel, and on older rear-wheel-drive vehicles also on the spindle.

Signs of wear: Humming or droning that rises with speed and changes in corners, wheel play and sometimes an ABS warning.

Did you know: On many newer American vehicles the bearing is built into the hub and the whole hub is replaced, while older tapered bearings must be greased and correctly preloaded.

Shop — Wheel bearings

Wheel hubs

What it is: The hub is what the wheel and brake rotor bolt to; it usually has a built-in bearing and often an ABS sensor.

Where it is fitted: It bolts to the steering knuckle or axle housing at each wheel.

Signs of wear: Humming or droning while driving, wheel play, uneven pad wear and an ABS warning light.

Did you know: Hubs for pickups and SUVs differ between 2WD and 4WD versions and ABS connector types, so check the drivetrain and model year when ordering.

Shop — Wheel hubs

Where to next

We sell aftermarket replacement parts, not genuine parts from vehicle manufacturers. Descriptions are general — check the fit for your vehicle by OEM number or VIN.